I wasn’t planning on buying a watch – let alone a vintage Rolex Day-Date Reference 1803 from 1976 – when I met with Farid Froon to discuss a collaborative project. But, as fate would have it, the watch was sitting on his desk, freshly returned from service. Naturally, as a watch enthusiast, I had to try it on. And that, I quickly realized, was a decision I wouldn’t be able to undo.
The Instant Connection
It was one of those rare moments when everything just clicks. My immediate attraction to the watch might have had something to do with the outfit I was wearing that day. The weather was perfect for khakis and an Italian linen shirt, a combination that seemed to harmonize effortlessly with the Reference 1803’s vintage aesthetic. It felt like the clone watch was meant to be a part of the moment. In that instant, I knew this Day-Date would soon be mine.
The Subtle Magic of the 1976 Dial
As a Rolex, the finer details were not lost on me, particularly when it comes to this specific Reference 1803. Made in 1976, this model was the last to feature the unique café au lait-colored dial paired with white pad printing. It’s a subtle feature, one that becomes almost invisible from certain angles, lending the dial a ghostly quality that only adds to the watch’s allure.
Farid had affectionately named it “El Fantasma de la Habana” (The Ghost of Havana), a fitting tribute to the watch’s vintage charm. Though I don’t smoke cigars or frequent Cuba, the imagery of strolling down a Havana boulevard with a chilled Cuba Libre in hand was undeniably evocative.
A Perfect Patina
The appeal of a vintage Rolex, especially the Day-Date, lies in its balance between patina and preservation. Some watches wear their age too heavily, but I prefer a gentle balance. This Reference 1803 strikes that perfect middle ground. The case is sharp, clean, and retains its defined contours, while the dial features tritium dots that have aged, creating small marks around them. These marks, reminiscent of “fried eggs,” give the watch an unmistakable vintage feel.
This model also boasts a pie-pan dial, a characteristic where only the section containing the minute track is curved. While subtle, this design element adds depth and light play, distinguishing it from flatter dials, such as those of the Omega Constellation. The warm yellow gold of the watch, tinged with a faint pink hue due to the copper content in the alloy, enhances its vintage character, giving it a unique warmth that immediately conjured images of Havana’s sun-drenched streets.
The Bracelet Dilemma
The original “President” bracelet, which would have come with this watch, was long gone by the time I acquired it. While its disappearance is a mystery – perhaps the bracelet was worn out or melted down for scrap gold – I don’t mind. The lack of the gold bracelet actually enhances the watch’s character. With the bracelet, the Day-Date would have risked being overwhelming, too much gold for one piece, distracting from the dial’s delicate hues.
Instead, this Reference 1803 now rests on a leather strap from Molequin in their Sandstone color. The earthy tones of the strap complement the subtle shade of the dial, offering a muted elegance. But the watch can also take on a different personality with a blue or British racing green strap, revealing a more versatile side to its character.
At 36 mm in diameter, the replica Day-Date feels just right on my wrist – not too small, yet never overpowering. It has a presence, but it doesn’t scream for attention. Unlike larger modern watches, which can feel bulky, this vintage model exudes a quiet confidence.
One final detail that cemented my decision was the original yellow gold Rolex buckle that accompanied the watch. Although the bracelet was missing, the buckle lent an authentic, period-correct touch that made the watch feel uniquely mine as soon as I strapped it on.